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Discovering Singapore on foot: Highlights of a 5-day walk around the island

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SINGAPORE: It was a walk to remember.

On Friday (Oct 16), CNA journalists Matthew Mohan and Gaya Chandramohan completed their long journey around Singapore, which saw them clock 140km over the space of five days. They kicked off their walk at 6am on Monday from Taman Jurong Market and Food Centre and returned there at 2pm on Friday. 

Their goal?

To rediscover the parts of the island that they had otherwise forgotten about and uncover new hidden treasures, some of which people might not know about.

After all, with limited opportunities for overseas travel because of COVID-19, discovering what is on your doorstep is the next best thing.

This is Matthew Mohan’s account of the five-day journey.

Singapore on Foot Day 5 journey completed map

MONDAY: TAMAN JURONG HAWKER CENTRE – JURONG LAKE GARDENS – KENT RIDGE PARK – HORT PARK – HARBOURFRONT

The journey began in a slightly inauspicious way.

I had set my heart on kicking off this long walk around Singapore by slurping down a delicious bowl of lor mee at Taman Jurong Market and Food Centre. Alas, the stall which I had hoped to get it from is closed on Mondays. 

#SingaporeOnFoot Oct 12, 2020 (2)

CNA journalist Matthew Mohan begins the marathon walk around Singapore, Oct 12, 2020. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

READ: As it happens: CNA explores Singapore on foot Day 2

So breakfast would have to wait – but our walk couldn’t. 

With more than 100km ahead of us, we set off with fire in our bellies rather than food towards the first stop – Jurong Lake Gardens. We’d heard a lot about the park from readers as well as friends and it did not disappoint.

Jurong Lake Gardens

Early morning at Jurong Lake Gardens. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

After a short trek, the shimmering beauty of Jurong Lake came into view, reflecting images of civilisation in the distance. We might have been in the middle of a massive housing estate, but here was an oasis of calm and tranquility.

Breezing past joggers and cyclists, we made our way towards the southern half of the park where we were greeted by an expanse of rustling grass and patches of lalang. Jutting out from the landscape was a lone tree – a sculpture made from recycled iron bars, which we later found out was an ode to the industrial origins of Jurong.

Even the grey, overcast sky couldn’t do much to spoil the beauty of the area. In fact, quite the opposite. The bare branches of the sculpture somehow fitted in perfectly with the low, scudding clouds – much more so than if we’d been walking through typical, tropical sunshine.

The Lone Tree

The Lone Tree at Jurong Lake Gardens. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

Perched on a grass mound, we drank the view in. Apart from a couple posing for what looked to be their wedding photoshoot pictures, we had the area to ourselves. 

Bliss.

With the Chinese and Japanese Gardens both closed for maintenance, we had to walk a loop of Jurong Lake Gardens rather than taking a shortcut. This added distance was something we’d dreaded while planning the route, but with the sun showing no sign of peeking through the thick cloud cover anytime soon, things were easier than anticipated.

Rounding a bend, we were greeting by the sight of otters frolicking on a deck, completely oblivious to their surroundings. We succumbed to the temptation to snap a quick video of the furry critters and ended up spending a little more time at the park than expected.

A couple taking wedding pictures at Jurong Lake Gardens

A couple taking wedding pictures at Jurong Lake Gardens. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

We pushed on in the direction of West Coast, along a road which threw up various memories of our childhood. First, a smiling snowman marking a familar haunt in the form of Snow City, and then the various exhibits sitting idle outside Science Centre – a reminder of field trips and school lessons.

It had indeed been a while.

Further down the road loomed a strange asymmetrical building. It had a clock tower resembling a periscope, a body representing a ship and a look unlike anything I’d seen before. This was Jurong Town Hall, a building gazetted as a national monument in 2015.

I could see why.

Its architecture was eye-catching. When it was gazetted in 2015, the National Heritage Board described it as “an iconic testimony to Singapore’s drive towards modernisation and development in its early years of independence”.  Gazing at its angular, 1970s lines, such a description seemed entirely apt.

Jurong Town Hall

Jurong Town Hall looms in the distance. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

We had planned for Teban Gardens Hawker Centre to be the first food stop along the first leg of our walk, but with options there seemingly limited, we decided to tackle a section of Pandan Reservoir on the way to Ayer Rajah Food Centre. 

Indian Rojak probably isn’t supposed to be type of light meal one’d enjoy while on a long trek, but I enjoyed every mouthful.

In my opinion one of the best versions of the dish anywhere on the island, Abdhus Salam Rojak is always a must-stop when I visit the hawker centre. As I dunked pieces of deep-fried goodness in bowls of crunchy gravy, it more than hit the spot.

Rojak at Ayer Rajah Food Centre

A hearty meal of Indian rojak at Ayer Rajah Food Centre. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

With about 15km under our belts, the sun slowly started to make sporadic appearances as we followed the long stretch of West Coast Road.

It was here the muscles began to tighten, and the straps on our backpacks began to weigh down just that little bit more. But with the quay cranes of the port beckoning, it looked like our end-point of Harbourfront wasn’t that far away.

But we were wrong.

walk day 1

Trudging underneath a flyover near Teban Gardens. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

With West Coast Park done and dusted, it should have been a straight shot to our hotel – about 6km, a distance which shouldn’t have taken that long to cover.

But in a ridiculous moment of ambition, I figured that it might be worth taking a detour up to Kent Ridge Park. The idea was to cut through these parks, taking a course parallel to West Coast Highway – which to all intents and purposes, was a yawn of a road.

With Gaya convinced, we weaved a path up Pepys Road and within 15 minutes, we knew we had made a mistake. The steep incline of the road meant the going was tough and this took valuable time off what we had on our hands.

Kent Ridge Park

Talking a walk through Hort Park. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

Slowly beginning to pant, we criss-crossed our wayfrom Kent Ridge Park through to Hort Park, which had a number of interesting stops, but the distance was beginning to take a toll. We’d covered about 25km at this point.

Despite starting to feel tired, the appeal of Hort Park revived our energy. Boasting myriad gardens, greenhouses and the odd trail, it was a pleasant surprise to see what this lesser-known park had in store. Carefully cultivated with plenty of hidden delights, it deserved more time than we could spare.  

And those time constraints meant we had to give the Southern Ridges and Henderson Waves a miss – spots that are extremely popular. Never mind – we could come back another day.

"Play Mosaic"

A “play mosaic” of the iconic dragon playground is located at Hort Park. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

Eventually managing to navigate our way back to the main road – this took some trouble believe me – we set out on our final stretch of road. 

As the sirens were to a lonely sailor, MRT stations along the way formed fleeting temptations as we trudged along. 

But the sight of the hulking shopping mall Vivocity across the road and the beautiful, mesmerising cable cars in the skyline above meant that we’d reached our endpoint for the day.

11 hours and 30km later, our first leg was complete. 

Harbourfront Cablecars

Cable cars in the distance. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

We’d discovered a new park, enjoyed a hearty meal of one of Singapore’s best dishes, and seen an iconic building.

Day one complete, four more to go.

DAY TWO: HARBOURFRONT – CHINATOWN DISTRICT – HONG LIM MARKET  – EAST COAST PARK – SINGAPORE EXPO

“This char kway teow is too wet,” remarked a regular at Hong Lim Market and Food Centre, an empty red plate streaked with stains of a meal consumed resting in front of him.

Having probably just had the best meal of a trip around Singapore, I was incredulous.

“But, it’s usually like that. Their version is not bad, and tastes good. I used to come here two to three times a week,” clarified 62-year-old Mr Lee, who only wanted to be known by his last name.

“I come to this hawker centre only for this char kway teow, nothing else.”

char kway teow

Mouthwatering char kway teow. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

It was easy to understand why – the noodles were the right blend of spicy, sweet and savoury. Accentuated by the crunch of the beansprouts, crispness of lard and the smoothness of the cockles, this had to be one of Singapore’s best versions of the dish.

I had tried Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee on a number of occasions in the past, and as we made a beeline up the stairs to the second floor of the food centre, I was bracing myself for a wait. 

READ: CNA explores Singapore on foot (Day 1): The lone tree and the longer-than-expected walk

After all, this char kway teow usually comes served with a 30 minute wait.

But to my utter amazement, there was nobody in line. Fried, dished, served. I scoffed down my meal in less than 15 minutes.

“I had already been patronising this stall since it was at Outram,” explained Mr Lee. “After it shifted, I couldn’t locate it for a few years. I would give it 9/10, no problem. But I can’t give it full marks, full marks would be 100 per cent!”

Shophouses en route to Hong Lim Market and Food Centre

Shophouses en route to Hong Lim Market and Food Centre. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

Who was I to argue? 

BLAST FROM THE PAST

It had been a rather uneventful walk to Hong Lim Market and Food Centre. Fresh out of the hotel, and with less than 30 minutes on the clock, we were met by the blaring horn of a car that sped by just inches away from us.

mural in chinatown

A mural in Chinatown by Yip Yew Chong. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

In our early morning stupor, my colleague Gaya Chandramohan and I had mistaken the flashing green man across the street for our own go-ahead to cross. Big mistake.

We were nearly clipped by a driver who was alert enough to sound the horn at two tired journalists who had clearly walked a bit too much the day before.

With that sobering incident not too far from both our thoughts, we spent the rest of the day being extra cautious at stop signs and traffic lights. Better safe than sorry.

Mural Neil Road

A mural along Neil Road. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

Today’s 28km route was to begin at Harbourfront, where we’d spent the night at a hotel, and end at Expo, where we’d also put up for the night. Despite the 30km we clocked the day before, we felt surprisingly sprightly. After some stretching the night before, the nagging aches had worn off.

READ: 110km, five days, two reporters: CNA sets out to explore Singapore on foot

We weaved our way quickly through the Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar district, enjoying the brightly coloured and lovingly restored shophouses. Further down our route, visual feasts awaited us along the South Bridge Road – the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, Sri Mariamman Temple and Jamae Chulia are reminders of the religious diversity of the country we live in. And all of them were looking splendid.

There were also elements of the past along the way, from an old payphone along Neil Road – we could still somehow place a call –  to Yip Yew Chong’s mural in a quiet alleyway off Smith Street, a beautiful scene packed with stunning details from Yip’s childhood.

These were legacies of different eras from those we were born in, but we appreciated them just as much. 

Being able to explore these places on a weekday and in the early hours of the morning added a different dimension to things – we could move at our own pace, away from the crowds and slowly savour what these districts had to offer.

Outside National Gallery Singapore

Facing the sun outside the National Gallery Singapore. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

Having ticked off Parliament House, the National Gallery Singapore and St Andrew’s Cathedral from our list of mandatory landmarks, we charged up Benjamin Sheares Bridge. 

And there, in stunning glory, was a mighty view.

Gardens by the Bay, the Singapore Flyer and Marina Bay Sands stood proudly across the water. These monuments to Singapore’s modernity make for an eye-catching vista, and were a sharp contrast to the historic districts we had been strolling through in the morning.

Benjamin Sheares bridge

Taking a photo at Benjamin Sheares bridge. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

The last time I’d had this view while on foot was while I was a National Service recruit, many moons ago. It was in the middle of the night – I was in green, sweating, and marching.

Funny how life has a way of bringing one full circle.

A jogger on the Singapore Formula One Grand Prix track

A jogger on the Singapore Formula One Grand Prix track (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

PAIN BEFORE PLEASURE 

The toughest part of our journey on Tuesday was probably the long stretch of East Coast Park. A seemingly benign patch of green on the map, it was anything but. 

As the sun began to blaze down and cyclists began to whiz past us, we realised why we were probably the only ones foolhardy to tame the stretch on foot.

And yet, even as the sun beat down and our legs became heavier, there were still moments of pleasure.

Matt at East Coast Park

Envisioning the pain that awaited at East Coast Park. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

The sound of the gentle waves lapping on the beach, the occasional cries of delight from a toddler enjoying an afternoon playing in the sand and the occasional slice of cool shade from the trees along the route were reminders that this is one of Singapore’s favourite playgrounds.

And on a Tuesday afternoon, free of the weekend crowds who flock to the area, it was more enjoyable and peaceful than I’m used to.

We gradually came across more signs of civilisation, but also reminders of a pandemic – benches cordoned in bright orange tape a reminder of the times we’re in.

Slices of watermelon

Slices of watermelon were our sustenance. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

And we pressed on, cooled down by slices of watermelon that a friend had kindly prepared as she met us halfway during the walk with her two boys.

This tided us over to our last stop before making the trek to the Expo – East Coast Lagoon Food Village. We’d heard of mouthwatering carrot cake and excellent satay from readers keen to share their foodie tips with us.

But we were there at 3pm.

We settled for cold gulps of sugarcane juice and some admittedly excellent barbecue chicken wings. An oyster omelette stall that I’d been hearing rave reviews about also happened to open its doors just as we were about to leave.

East Coast Park

A faint breeze at East Coast Park. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

I dug in. It was no 9/10 char kway teow and but it would have to do. 

After all as we’ve been finding out every day along this trek, you win some, you lose some.

DAY THREE: SINGAPORE EXPO – PASIR RIS PARK – CONEY ISLAND – ROWERS BAY

We’d dawdled over lunch. After all, this was the first chance to get solid food in our bellies since the previous day’s dinner.

Over plates of luscious white beehoon, my colleague Gaya Chandramohan and I discussed the day’s developments. 

Zoe Tay Singapore on Foot Matthew Mohan Gaya Chandramohan Pasir Ris

Zoe Tay walking through Pasir Ris Park with CNA journalists Matthew Mohan Gaya Chandramohan on Day 3 of the Singapore on Foot expedition. (Photo: Jeremy Long)

There had been the surreal walk with actress Zoe Tay to start the day, a tranquil stroll through the towering casuarina trees of Coney Island, and the unexpected encounters with readers who recognised us en route.

As our aching muscles nagged their disapproval, we had to wrench ourselves away from the air-conditioned comfort of the restaurant and face the baking sun. Our final 7km of the day awaited.

But we had scarcely walked more than 500m when we were met with a plastic bag straining with cold drinks.

READ: As it happens: CNA explores Singapore on Foot Day 4

A sumptuous lunch of white bee hoon

A sumptuous plate of white bee hoon. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

Our refreshments came courtesy of CNA readers Sherlyn Lee and Foo Siang Hwee, who had been following our journey on Twitter and drove down from their home in Punggol. They’d patiently waited while we were scoffing down our food so as to not disturb us.

And here they were, with drinks in hand. Our stomachs were full, but our hearts fuller.

CNA readers Sherlyn Lee and Foo Siang Hwee with journalists Matthew Mohan and Gaya Chandramohan

CNA readers Foo Siang Hwee (extreme left) and Sherlyn Lee with journalists Matthew Mohan and Gaya Chandramohan. (Photo: Foo Siang Hwee)

A SURPRISE GUEST

Wednesday had been a day full of surprises. 

Our route was due to take us from Singapore Expo to Pasir Ris park, then north to Coney Island, before taking a coastal loop that would see us end the day on the edge of Yishun Dam.

We’d started off the day feeling a little nervous – and it wasn’t because of the road ahead of us. 

Zoe Tay and Matthew Mohan on their walk around Singapore

Actress Zoe Tay and CNA journalist Matthew Mohan walking through the Expo area on Day 3 of the Singapore on Foot expedition. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

Zoe Tay had been following our exploits on social media and had reached out to us to check if she could join us for a portion of the journey. We had to double check if those messages were real – they were.

And so we walked, making quick work of our early morning start. The nervousness slowly ebbed away, as we breezed through conversation topics. 

We learnt about how Zoe started walking regularly during the COVID-19 pandemic, what life was like when she grew up in Lim Chu Kang (an area which we will cover in the last leg of our trek), and her love for dogs.

Zoe Tay Singapore on Foot Day 3 walking

Zoe Tay walking through Simei with CNA journalists Matthew Mohan and Gaya Chandramohan. (Photo: Jeremy Long)

One question we had to ask was whether the current rule about wearing a mask means that she is less recognised in public at the moment. 

Yes indeed, she said. Most people don’t realise it’s her.

As we rounded the corner to Pasir Ris park, clouds began to gather on the horizon. After a momentary distraction in the form of two gorgeous striped Bengal cats and their affable owner, we sought shelter under a nearby pavilion.

“Are you guys from CNA?” came the question. Here we were with a major celebrity like Zoe Tay, but we were the ones being recognised! Was this what stardom feels like? Of course, we eventually told them who our walking companion for the day was – to their utter delight.

Zoe Tay Singapore on Foot Day 3 with Bengal cat

Zoe Tay pets a Bengal cat at Pasir Ris Park. (Photo: Jeremy Long)

There were several other surprises along the way – those of the feathered, scaly and furry kinds. 

There were the squawking herons in Pasir Ris Park, the lone wild boar at serene Lorong Halus wetland and the monstrous monitor lizard close to Coney Island. Wildlife seemed to spring up at every corner and we were enjoying every second of it.

A Bengal cat at East Coast Park

A pet Bengal cat at East Coast Park. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

Lorong Halus wetland was an unexpected delight. A ten minute walk from the entrance to Coney Island, we had stumbled across the park entirely by chance.

Located on the site of a former landfill, the man-made wetland is located adjacent to the recognisable Lorong Halus bridge. The bridge is one of the more famous photo spots in the area and links the area to nearby Punggol.

The wetland itself would prove the perfect place for a quick break, as we chugged mineral water and enjoyed the views of the rustling weeds and placid ponds that dotted the landscape.

Lorong Halus red bridge

The Lorong Halus red bridge. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

After trudging through some areas of urban sprawl on the first two days of our journey, we were now seeing a very different side of Singapore. This was a reminder that even though we live in a city-state, nature has been carefully preserved as much as possible.

At the entrance to Coney Island, we met another reader who had been following our journey on Twitter. He had taken a brief stop during an epic 80km bike ride, following a loop from Woodlands.

Lorong Halus wetland

The serene Lorong Halus wetland. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

His was a one-day sprint, and ours a five-day marathon. But there were similarities in the spirit of adventure, in the desire to explore and embrace what Singapore has to offer.

On a quiet bridge leading to Coney Island, we had found a kindred spirit.

Journalist Matthew Mohan exploring Coney Island

Journalist Matthew Mohan exploring Coney Island. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

DAY FOUR: ROWERS BAY – SEMBAWANG HOT SPRINGS – SUNGEI BULOH WETLAND RESERVE – KRANJI COUNTRYSIDE

The morning of his 38th birthday found Mr Lim Zi Yuan barefoot and with a newly purchased red bucket by his side.

“We did Lazarus Island and Kusu (Island) on Tuesday, we went to Coney Island yesterday … so it’s really end-to-end of Singapore,” said Mr Lim, when I asked him why he and his wife had decided to drive down to Sembawang Hot Spring Park from his home in Farrer Park. 

“We thought we would come at this odd hour, when it was warmer but we were caught by surprise by the number of people.”

Mr Lim Zi Yuan and Ms Ng Pei Yin pose for a photograph

Mr Lim Zi Yuan and Ms Ng Pei Yin pose for a photograph. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

He wasn’t the only one who was surprised. 

Our penultimate day of walking around the island had seen us reach the hot springs at about 10am. And what would be more rewarding than soaking our battered, blistered and bruised feet in the steaming water of the hot spring?

READ: Sembawang Hot Spring Park reopens with cascading pool, cafe and floral walk

Well, we had to get in line first. It might have been the middle of the morning on a weekday, but the chatter of conversation that emanated from within the park as we entered was a clear sign that we wouldn’t be alone.

Having reopened earlier this year, the 1.1-hectare park is clearly a hit, with the cascading pool the most popular spot in the park. Water cools naturally as it flows down a four-tiered pool, starting at 70 degrees Celsius at the top and reaching the bottom at 40 degrees Celsius.

Thursday morning at Sembawang hot springs park

The cascading pool at Sembawang hot springs park. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

I had to bide my time though, before being able to slide into a spot on the perimeter of the pool. 

Bliss. Well, first some pain as I nearly scalded my feet – but soon after, that – bliss.

The park is another example of a (somewhat) hidden gem lurking in Singapore, which perhaps many people have yet to experience. If you want to try something different, it’s well worth it.

THE NEVER-ENDING ROAD

We’d begun the day at Rowers’ Bay, yet another park that we’d discovered only because of our journey. Nestled right at the edge of Yishun Dam, the park at Lower Seletar Reservoir is named for the reservoir’s popularity with kayaking and dragon-boating enthusiasts.

As we crossed Yishun Dam with the wind at our backs, we kept our eyes peeling, hoping to spot monitor lizards and other wildlife on the banks of the river. It took us less than fifteen minutes to cross the dam and the same amount of time to spot a monitor lizard casually poking its head through a thick of reeds by the shore.

First came the pleasure, but next was the pain. We had a stretch of about 15km that awaited us between the hot springs and our next major pitstop – Sungei Buloh wetlands reserve.

We’d mentally geared ourselves up for this one. There would be little to see, but much to walk. As we ticked off MRT stations on the North-South line, things seemed to be going well.

But as the sun blazed and our muscles ached, the walk became a trudge. We started to see a change in the landscape as HDB blocks slowly disappearing into the distance, and in their place sprung up construction sites.

A stretch of road near Kranji Reservoir Park

A stretch of road near Kranji Reservoir Park. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

We passed dormitories and factories, excavators and lorries – a side of Singapore seldom seen and usually forgotten.

And yet, even as the heat and monotony threatened to take their toll, my mind started to wander. All these factories and industrial facilities have a tale to tell, and I couldn’t help thinking of what they show about Singapore’s history.

For instance, there were construction companies which looked like they had been around for decades, and which must have played a part in Singapore’s development since independence. So too the workers toiling in the sun, their efforts often overlooked.

I wouldn’t necessarily recommend visiting the area, but I quite enjoyed seeing a part of Singapore very far removed from the sparkling modern metropolis of the CBD or some of the nature spots we had experienced earlier in the walk.

READ: CNA explores Singapore on foot (Day 3): The generosity of strangers and walking with a star 

Dragging ourselves past the tranquil Kranji Reservoir Park, in the distance we caught sight of Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve. 

Some respite finally beckoned.

Sungei Buloh wetland reserve

Along Sungei Buloh wetland reserve’s coastal trail. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

MANGROVES AND MUDFLATS

My last visit to the reserve had been when it was still known as Sungei Buloh Nature Reserve – it was renamed in 2002. It had been some time.

So I was pleasantly surprised as we strolled through the park, there were new trails, new boardwalks and new rest-stops.

We embarked on the park’s coastal trail, taking a route which skirted its edge, bringing us face to face with an impressive network of mangroves. The call of migratory birds and the buzz of cicadas punctuated the silence as we eyed every log-like object, hoping to chance upon one of the park’s resident crocodiles.

With time tight – we still had to walk to our accommodation for the night in Lim Chu Kang – we decided to give our croc hunt one last go, and follow the park’s mangrove boardwalk.

Sungei Buloh wetland reserve

A hornbill at Sungei Buloh wetland reserve. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

Still no dice. But just as we were about to leave, we came across probably our best sighting of the day – a pair of hornbills peering inquisitively down from the foliage at us.

As we had so often learnt during our trek around the island, sometimes the best surprises come when one least expects it.

DAY FIVE: KRANJI COUNTRYSIDE – BOLLYWOOD VEGGIES – NEO TIEW ESTATE – LIM CHU KANG – TAMAN JURONG HAWKER CENTRE

My eyes had just about adjusted to the sunlight filtering through the curtains at my room in the Lim Chu Kang resprt when the phone started buzzing. 

“No Caller ID” read the screen – surely this was too early in the morning for a scammer pretending to be an official from China?

“Hi Matthew, this is Zoe Tay. Have you guys started your walk today yet?” came a familiar voice. “I’m here outside. Hope I haven’t missed you guys yet!”

Gallop Kranji Resort

The entrance to our accomodation for the night at Lim Chu Kang. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

It was the morning of the fifth and final day of our expedition and actress Zoe Tay was surprising us with bread and the offer to be our walking companion again. 

Just as we had started to become addicted to our long exploration of Singapore, so it seemed that Zoe also wanted more of this experience. Hence, the unexpected early morning call.

I had to pinch myself to make sure this was real.

Singapore On Foot Day 5 (10)

Walking through Bollywood Veggies with Zoe Tay. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

FUN IN THE COUNTRYSIDE

We had mixed feelings before the start of the last day of our marathon walk around Singapore.

On the one hand, we were looking forward to completing the journey and enjoying a long rest. On the other, the route for the day would take us through Lim Chu Kang road and Jalan Bahar, areas which my colleague Gaya Chandrmohan and I only knew to contain cemeteries and army camps.

There would be hardly any pedestrianised walkways, and with trucks hurtling up and down along the two-lane road weaving through the Kranji countryside, we were unsure whether the area would hold much appeal. 

Singapore On Foot Day 5 (8)

Zoe Tay pointing out where the coffee shops and market used to be when she lived along Lim Chu Kang Road as a teenager. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

So Zoe’s arrival gave us a welcome boost. Having grown up in Lim Chu Kang, this was an area she was more than familiar with. She proved to be the perfect guide.

And so, what would have probably seemed like overgrown jungle to us took on so much more significance as she patiently pointed to areas she was familiar with from her childhood and how they used to look.

There was the shop in which she permed her hair for the first time and then regretted how it turned out. There was the community centre where she was given her BCG injection and the nurse was so rough that it led to her fear of needles. There was one of the first HDB blocks in the area, where she played on the playground slide and got too tanned.

The countryside had come alive. 

A path in the Kranji countryside

A path in the Kranji countryside. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

Instead of long stretches of anonymous undergrowth and bland roads, Gaya and I were now seeing into Singapore’s past. For sure, this area has changed – like so much of the country – and learning a little of its history was a joy.

En route to the area of Zoe’s old home, we visited Bollywood Veggies, a sprawling farm nestled in the Kranji countryside. We had the pleasure of a short guided tour in the one of the compound’s gardens and I even had a go at harvesting rice – thoroughly enjoyable.

Despite the farm’s far-flung location, it was already seeing excited guests come through its gates as early as 9am in the morning, eager to explore the compound or enjoy breakfast at the farm’s bistro.

Leaving the farm with a belly full of banana bread, I made a mental note to return. Now if only there were a public bus service plying this route rather than the sole shuttle service!

Lim Chu Kang road

Stopping along an old bus stop at Lim Chu Kang road. (Photo: Matthew Mohan)

With Zoe bidding farewell to us after about three hours on the road, it was left for us to conquer the remaining kilometres – ending our journey just as we started off.

This proved to be easier said than done under the fierce heat of the midday sun. We’d foolishly neglected to purchase water when we’d set off and the back of our throats were beginning to dry up.

When a petrol station finally materialised in the distance, we couldn’t get there fast enough.

A FINAL FLOURISH

After some resting, drinking and stretching, we were once again back on the road, with all eyes on the finish line.

Singapore on Foot Matthew Mohan Gaya Chandramohan Jurong West

CNA journalists Matthew Mohan and Gaya Chandramohan walking through Jalan Boon Lay on Day 5 of the Singapore on Foot expedition. (Photo: Jeremy Long)

This was the moment that we had been thinking of for some time now, and as the signboard for Taman Jurong Market and Food Centre came into view, we couldn’t help but break into smiles under our sweat soaked face masks.

It had been a journey that had seen us clock a distance we wouldn’t otherwise have walked (140km instead of the originally planned 110km), seen us explore parts of Singapore that we’d otherwise never had chanced upon and meet people that we’d never otherwise have met.

The island had proven to offer so much and then some more. From the swaying lalang fields of Jurong Lake Gardens to the waterlogged mangroves of Sungei Buloh, we’d had an adventure that we and our aching bodies wouldn’t be forgetting any time soon.

We’d done it. But there was one more task left unfinished. 

Matthew Mohan Gaya Chandramohan Jurong West Singapore on Foot 2

CNA journalists Matthew Mohan and Gaya Chandramohan walking through Jalan Boon Lay on Day 5 of the Singapore on Foot expedition. (Photo: Jeremy Long)

I trudged up the escalator with my backpack in search of that elusive bowl of lor mee that I had wanted for breakfast on the first day. And just as I had made my way to the stall in question, I noticed the hawkers packing up for the day.

My lor mee would have to wait – perhaps until the next round island trek.

FINAL THOUGHTS 

Prior to this walk, domestic travel and exploration had never really been of much interest to me.

There were the tried and tested destinations like the Singapore Zoo, Marina Bay Sands and East Coast Park which I had enjoyed, but was there truly anything more out there?

After all, how much variety in experiences could one enjoy within such a small space?

But our journey across Singapore emphatically answered that question – there is indeed plenty to do, and quite a lot to learn. 

Singapore On Foot Day 5 (1)

As unglamorous as it seems, we made sure to stretch at every opportunity we got. (Photo: Gaya Chandramohan)

Going about the journey on foot also meant that we took the time to really appreciate our surroundings. What would have been a five minute journey via car would translate to a thirty minute walk – and painful though that may have been at times, it added an extra dimension to our adventure.

And even though our bodies are sore and legs are weary, both of us will always look back on this journey with lasting memories. 

Now, its time for you to make your own.

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‘No longer groping in the dark’: NCID doctors share how COVID-19 is being treated in Singapore

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SINGAPORE: Singapore was one of the first countries in Asia to see COVID-19 cases back in January, when very little was known about the disease, and it was one of the first places where there was community spread.

Nine months on, the country has recorded more than 57,000 COVID-19 cases, but this is a fraction of the tens of millions of infections around the world.

So far, 28 people have died of COVID-19 in Singapore – one of the lowest mortality rates in the world. In the US, where there have been about 8 million cases, more than 200,000 people have died.

As of Saturday (Oct 17), 37 COVID-19 patients remain hospitalised in Singapore, with none in intensive care. More than 99 per cent of those infected have been discharged, while there are 41 in community care facilities.

READ: 64-year-old man is Singapore’s 28th COVID-19 fatality; first in three months

But it wasn’t always like this. Three National Centre for Infectious Diseases (NCID) consultants told CNA how treatment of the novel coronavirus has evolved here and how NCID has kept the number of critical cases low.

The initial stages of the outbreak were fraught with uncertainty, said Dr Ray Lin Junhao, 37, an infectious disease consultant at Tan Tock Seng Hospital and NCID.

He was involved in the direct care of COVID-19 patients, including those who were critically ill. Dr Lin was also a co-investigator in several clinical trials that evaluated therapeutics for the disease.

“With the advances in research over the past few months, we now have a better idea of what treatment works and what doesn’t. Although the efficacy of the currently available treatment is modest, at least we are no longer groping in the dark,” said Dr Lin.

“CONSTANT STRUGGLE”

One of the differences between the COVID-19 pandemic and previous outbreaks has been the vast amount of information about the coronavirus on the Internet and social media, available to both doctors and the general public.

This has influenced the course of the current pandemic, he said. In the early days of the outbreak, reports of potential treatments for COVID-19 made it “tempting” to use them on the sickest patients, he added. 

“As a physician, it is in our nature to want to give some form of treatment to our patients, even if unproven, rather than to stand by passively and hope for the best … This was a constant struggle in the initial phase of the outbreak,” he said.

However, the potential harms of unproven therapy are real, such as in the case of hydroxychloroquine, he said.

The anti-malaria drug, which was endorsed by US President Donald Trump early in the pandemic, was said in small studies to be a potential treatment but proved during clinical trials to have little benefit. The World Health Organization (WHO) has since halted trials of the drug. 

UPDATED MAP: All the places that COVID-19 community cases visited while they were infectious

READ: COVID-19: Singapore, Hong Kong reach in-principle agreement to establish bilateral air travel bubble

Dr Mucheli Sharavan Sadasiv, 37, said that there was a feeling of helplessness in the early days, because of the uncertainty due to all the unknowns.

“I think it’s normal to feel that way. Being exhausted physically and mentally did not help as well. As time has gone by, we have learnt so much more about the illness and that helps us with our work in taking care of patients,” said the infectious diseases physician, who has been involved in the implementation of the convalescent plasma programme for COVID-19 in Singapore. 

Dr Mucheli Sharavan Sadasiv NCID

Dr Mucheli Sharavan Sadasiv, a consultant at the National Centre for Infectious Diseases (NCID). (Photo: NCID)

For example, one of the most effective ways of keeping patients alive in the early days was flipping them around to lie prone – or on their front – instead of on their backs when they were on ventilators. 

Prone-position ventilation was one of the few early interventions that significantly helped the patients in the intensive care unit (ICU), said Dr Lin. 

“These patients were so severely affected by COVID-19 that even with the maximum support from the ventilator, we were unable to achieve adequate oxygenation.” 

But the simple manoeuvre helped patients breathe easier and absorb oxygen better, buying time for the body to recover as there was no effective therapy at that point in the outbreak.

READ: COVID-19 pandemic creates ‘surge’ of flawed research

EARLY INTERVENTION

Other aspects have become clearer as well, for example, knowing which patients might get sick, and those who might need closer attention, the doctors said.

“I have much more confidence in counselling patients on their condition now,” said Dr Lee Tau Hong, 39.

“Now, with the knowledge we have, we are able to allay patient fears and the doubts that we have with regard to this disease.”

Dr Lee Tau Hong, consultant at NCID

Dr Lee Tau Hong, a consultant at the National Centre for Infectious Diseases (NCID). (Photo: NCID)

That knowledge has led to clear classification guidelines for patients at higher risk of severe disease, as well as treatment guidelines, drafted by the national COVID-19 therapeutic workgroup lead by Dr Shawn Vasoo, clinical director of NCID.  

As vice-chair of the Chapter of Infectious Disease Physicians, College of Physicians Singapore, Dr Lee provided comments during the drafting of the interim treatment guidelines. He also treated COVID-19 patients, drafted clinical workflows and was a co-investigator in several research publications.

For instance, it is now known that older patients, and those with underlying conditions such as heart disease or diabetes, as well as those who are obese, are at higher risk of developing severe disease.

READ: Britain rations remdesivir as COVID-19 hospitalisations rise

Dr Lee said that early diagnosis and identification of patients at risk of developing severe disease were some of the most important factors that have helped patients. For severe cases, medicines such as remdesivir and dexamethasone have proven effective.

NCID collaborated with Gilead and the United States’ National Institutes of Health for the remdesivir clinical trials.

Explaining how the drugs work, Dr Lee said that remdesivir is an anti-viral agent that acts directly on the SARS-CoV-2 – the virus that causes COVID-19 – thus reducing the harmful effects of the disease. 

Dexamethasone, a commonly used corticosteroid, helps to dampen inflammation, as patients can develop severe disease due to overwhelming inflammation in the body that is triggered by the viral infection.

The coronavirus disease (COVID-19) outbreak in Cairo

FILE PHOTO: A lab technicians holds COVID-19 treatment drug remdesivir at Eva Pharma Facility in Cairo, Egypt June 25, 2020. REUTERS/Amr Abdallah Dalsh

READ: NCID guidelines recommend use of dexamethasone for patients with ‘severe’ COVID-19

READ: Fauci says ‘reasonably good chance’ Regeneron antibody therapy helped Trump

Dr Lin said he noticed that a good number of patients at NCID improved more rapidly on remdesivir when it was trialled there. It shortened the average length of stay in the ICU for patients on the study.

“Eventually, we were proven right with the official release of the trial results, which showed remdesivir to be the first drug with proven efficacy against SARS-CoV-2,” he said.

Mr Trump, who contracted COVID-19 more than two weeks ago, was treated with both drugs as well as an antibody cocktail developed by US biotechnology company Regeneron. Antibodies are proteins produced by the body to fight against diseases.

It has been reported that the neutralising antibodies were developed by the US drug company with blood samples from three NCID patients who recovered from COVID-19. 

Associate Professor David Lye, senior consultant and director of NCID’s Infectious Disease Research and Training Office said the centre had responded to a request for collaboration from Regeneron, with no claim of intellectual property right. 

As part of the collaboration, NCID was asked to recruit up to 20 patients who had recovered from COVID-19, to collect samples. After obtaining patients’ informed consent, it recruited five patients and were told by Regeneron that they had enough samples. 

FILE PHOTO: The Regeneron Pharmaceuticals company logo is seen on a building at the company's

FILE PHOTO: The Regeneron Pharmaceuticals company logo is seen on a building at the company’s Westchester campus in Tarrytown, New York, US on Sep 17, 2020. REUTERS/Brendan McDermid

“They eventually used the samples from three of our five patients, as the starting point for research using their technology to develop their monoclonal antibodies,” he said.

Monoclonal antibodies are based on natural antibodies, but are created in laboratories and can be mass produced.

Dr Lee said that he had a patient who had an uncomplicated infection but was very grateful and wanted to contribute in some way. After he recovered, he volunteered to donate his plasma, which contain antibodies against the virus.

“There were many other patients who agreed to participate in clinical trials. They were randomly assigned to be given a placebo or remdesivir … I wish to take the opportunity to thank our patients,” he said.

NCID’s interim treatment guidelines state that further data is required for interferon beta-based treatments and convalescent plasma, among others.

“Although we already have some answers, we still await the results of some important trials that are ongoing,” said Dr Sadasiv.

A “HUMBLING EXPERIENCE”

When asked why Singapore has seen low rates of fatalities and severe cases, the doctors said that one of the main reasons was that many of the patients were young and healthy, as the majority of the cases in Singapore were migrant workers.

Early access to medical care and good supportive treatment have been important factors as well.

“The health system (has not been) overwhelmed by too many sick cases, unlike in some other countries with higher mortality,” said Dr Sadasiv. “I think this has allowed us to be able to deal with critically ill patients better.”

Dr Lin said the good public health response to contain community spread in the early part of the outbreak prevented hospitals in Singapore from being overwhelmed.

“This also bought us much needed time to better understand the virus, the disease and for an effective treatment to emerge,” he said.

READ: Ebola drug remdesivir used to treat COVID-19 patients in Singapore as part of clinical trials

He added that research on COVID-19 in Singapore was achieved at a speed and with a level of coordination that was unprecedented, and this data and evidence helped guide the assessment and treatment of patients.

This information was then disseminated to the doctors on the ground by the Health Ministry and NCID.

“By the time the cases surged, we knew enough about the disease to be able to identify patients who were at risk of complications and to allocate the necessary resources and treatment needed to improve their outcomes,” he said.

Dr Sadasiv said that the whole process has been a humbling experience, as different departments and agencies worked together to tackle the pandemic.

“It has taught me to embrace uncertainty and to know our limitations. It was a challenge to keep up to pace with the expanding information and the many changes to workflows and processes. I hope I’ve learnt to have more gratitude too,” he said.

BOOKMARK THIS: Our comprehensive coverage of the coronavirus outbreak and its developments

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Commentary: Are you Peranakan if you can’t cook ayam buah keluak?

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SINGAPORE: Without a shadow of a doubt, every time my Peranakan family and circle of friends have a social gathering, food is the main attraction.

When you think Peranakan culture, your mind immediate wanders to the sights and smells of nyonya cuisine.

For the uninitiated, nyonya is the term for female Peranakans – when the women in the household took pride in pounding over 10 different spices to make rempah, a paste that eventually becomes garang assam (lemon grass fish) or sambal udang (spicy prawns) depending on the exact mixture, and set the long dinner table (tok panjang) for the family with dishes upon dishes, cooked with love over many hours slaving over a stove.

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD

Food is such a way of our life that you hardly ever hear a Jati (what we call a true, blue Peranakan) say she is on diet when we meet up for a meal.

Peranakans simply drip with descriptive words about food: Shiok lah! Sedap lah

READ: Has the ‘soul’ gone out of modern Peranakans?

READ: Commentary: I am Peranakan not Chinese

These are expressions to register our heartfelt satisfaction with an array of Peranakan dishes, which have edged their way into mainstream Singapore cuisine, as much as those words have become standard phrases uttered by Singaporeans enjoying a good meal.

Whether ayam buah keluak, itek Tim, itek sio, babi pongteh or chap chye, all accompanied by a dollop of freshly pounded sambal belachan with a squeeze of lime to provide that extra oomph, there are fewer things that get Peranakans into a frenzy as a discussion rating Baba restaurants in Singapore.

Most of the time, Peranakans swear the best dishes are found in the homes of doting grandmothers who take painstaking efforts to wash, dry, cut open and pound the humble buak keluak – the centrepice of the most famous nyonya dish, whose unique family recipe is most Peranakans’ secret pride and joy.

(ss) Peranakan Culture 14 extra - peranakan plates

Peranakan dishes. (Photo: Lam Shushan)

ARE YOU PERANAKAN IF YOU CAN’T FOOD PERANAKAN MAKAN?

While most Peranakans love to eat, especially to eat our heritage dishes, however, does it necessarily follow that all Peranakans can cook them?

I find this standard of judging ourselves somewhat harsh and reductive of great cultures with a long history. 

Do we expect that all Hainanese people must know how to cook chicken rice? That all Malays must know how to make rendang? That all Indians must know how to cook rasum? Do all Scottish people know how to make haggis?

The art of enjoying eating a particular dish is not synonymous with a mastery over cooking.

We cannot assume that all Peranakans look to cook. In fact, we must also not assume that all Peranakans will love to eat ayam buah keluak, just as we cannot assume that all Malays will love rendang, Indians, rasum, or the Hainannese, chicken rice. I know for sure, that not all Scots like their haggis.

READ: The slow death of Peranakan cuisine? Or is authenticity overrated?

READ: Commentary: I am Eurasian and Singaporean – same same

However, you may be the richer for it to be able to tell apart your lengkuas (blue ginger) from your bunga kantan (torch ginger flower) and how to magically bring the various ingredients together in such a way that it will produce a truly delectable dish that gets lips smacking and people talking about it long after the dish has been devoured.

A CULTURE BASED ON GATHERING

Peranakans in Singapore are very fortunate. Our island is small enough to congregate easily with fellow Peranakans. We have the opportunities to get together fairly frequently to celebrate our culture and heritage.

We can practice some of our many customs, or talk about it so that it remains in the forefront of our memory. No doubt us seniors live in the hope that more Anak Peranakan (our Peranakan youths) want to participate and be inspired to carry on our traditions before we popped our clogs.

But if you ask me what images are conjured up in my mind when someone asks me what being Peranakan is like, I would point to our gatherings – for our Malam Joget, our Peranakan Ball, or Chakap Chakap Baba at the Peranakan Association of Singapore.

The first is the occasional flamboyant dress-up evening in colourful, resplendent Peranakan outfits with bling-bling jewellery to joget or dance the night away. You might be amused to know that our Babas (Peranakan men), are permitted to happily flaunt their style too – in shiny brooches, glittering shirts and sarongs.

KEEPING THE LINGO ALIVE

The other part of being Peranakan is language. To chakap is to speak. Chakap Chakap Baba is our attempt to keep our unique Peranakan patois alive by making conversations in our own language.

Peranakan Gallery (Furniture and photos)

The new Peranakan Gallery features, among others, this blackwood furniture as well as old Peranakan photographs. (Photo: Peranakan Museum, Changi Airport Group)

In my growing-up years, we were not compelled to study Mandarin, so the majority of us studied Malay in school which is the parent language of our patois, incorporated with Hokkien words.

Of course, much has been lost over the years but we soldier on. We run language classes to recall our special lingo and sing-song lilt.

These various activities make us an inclusive group to some degree. It’s this inclusiveness which acts as a tremendous advantage to keep our culture strong and alive.

The birth of the Peranakan Museum, Baba House and other private museums, not to mention the media influence of The Little Nonya series, all help to showcase a culture that used to be quietly practised in the privacy of homes.

FOOD IS A HUGE PART OF OUR CULTURE BUT NOT THE ONLY THING

To suggest that a Peranakan who can’t cook ayam buah keluak cannot be considered a Peranakan is far too sweeping in my opinion. Cooking is only one aspect of a layered heritage and culture.

In the olden days, girls generally did not go to school or out to work. Learning to cook, embroider and make a home were her priorities.

These days, young women have to hold a full-time job, and be wife and mother. Naturally, cooking has to take a backseat.

READ: Commentary: The Dragon Mother-in-law and the First Son Syndrome

READ: Commentary: What’s wrong with being a single woman?

Culture has to evolve with the times. If we’re too rigid, set too many rules, enforce irrelevant customs, we will scare away the young. Then they will reject our heritage. That is when all is lost.

THE CHEATER’S WAY OF MAKING AN EXCELLENT AYAM BUAK KELUAK

Having said all that, let me end with a tip to make an excellent ayam buah keluak like mothers used to make in this modern age without the old hassle.

This dish is the caviar of Peranakan cuisine. It’s an acquired taste. The richness of its sauce comes from the buah keluak nut which grows on a kepayang tree, now a heritage tree in Singapore. 

It has a hard, grooved shell outside and the inside is soft and black. However, it is laced with hydrogen cyanide so be very aware. Most of the work involved is preparing the fruit to remove the poison.

Growers plucked the nuts and bury them in ash for months. Then they are cleaned, ready for use. But the cook still has to soak the nuts for days before use, scrub them down and change the water each day.

Peranakan Food laksa collage

Laksa with homemade sambal.

Before you cook it with your chicken pieces, you have to crack each nut on its lip, scrape out the black inside, pound it with some gula Melaka, then re-insert it back into the nut. The process is time-consuming.

The cheater’s way is a modern development. Nowadays growers market the nuts, already taken out of its shell. So, what you get is a clean black fruit.

You can buy these ready-to-be-cooked nuts at Tekka Market and Geylang Serai. No more hard work and messing about cleaning and scrubbing the shell.

You pound five or six of these and mix the paste with your chicken pieces. I find that it does not compromise the taste at all.

But hardliners still prefer the sauce with the nuts still in their shell. 

When eating they may insist on using a special spoon to dig out the black insides and understandably so. This worship of the fruit is a practice well shared by Malays and Indonesians who use this nut to make rawon sauce. 

The right measure of fresh chillies, candlenuts, asam and coconut milk will turn this odd-looking nut into one of the most unique and mouth-watering dishes in Peranakan cuisine.

I hope this cheat will encourage young Peranakans and aspiring cooks to try their hand at making the dish.

But don’t beat yourself up if you’re a struggling Peranakan unable to cook ayam buak keluak. And be nice to the nyonya bahru (young Peranakan) who might try their hand at it but can’t whip up a dish as good as nenek’s (grandma).

Josephine Chia is author of many books, most famously Kampong Spirit: Gotong Royong, Goodbye My Kampong and the children’s edition, Growing Up in Kampong Potong Pasir, and most recently, Big Tree in a Small Pot.

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Commentary: Noisy RSAF aircraft and annoyed residents – some compromises are needed

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SINGAPORE: The issue of aircraft noise from Republic of Singapore Air Force aircraft flying over HDB estates has reared its head again.

Defence Minister Dr Ng Eng Hen responded to a question raised in Parliament by Potong Pasir Member of Parliament Sitoh Yih Pin, who asked if the RSAF would consider reducing the number of early morning training sessions of military aircraft near residential areas, given more residents work from home.

Responding in writing, Dr Ng explained the RSAF is already taking measures to reduce its noise footprint, with half of its flying training carried out with aircraft detachments based overseas in countries like Australia, France and the United States.

Locally, these measures include increased use of flight simulators and the use of overwater training areas for training, with efforts to avoid flying over Singapore except when unavoidable, such as during take-off, landing and the transit to the RSAF’s designated training areas.

The RSAF also clusters its sorties from Paya Lebar and Tengah Airbases as much as possible. This is to ensure the take-off cycle, where noise is loudest because the aircraft has to use higher power settings to accelerate, is kept as short as possible.

C-130 lands in Paya Lebar Airbase after mission in Palu

A C-130 transport aircraft involved in humanitarian assistance efforts in Indonesia lands at Paya Lebar Airbase on Friday (Oct 26, 2018). (Photo: Jeremy Long)

However, he stressed that while “we recognise the inconvenience and disruption to residents here”, RSAF pilots need to train adequately to maintain their skills and not let their capabilities degrade, noting that “it is critical for Singapore’s survival to maintain a capable and operationally-ready RSAF”.

NOISE AND SPACE-STARVED SINGAPORE

Aircraft noise affecting nearby residential areas is a perennial bugbear for most air forces in developed countries. Unfortunately, in land-scarce Singapore, the issue is further supercharged by the proximity of our airbases to high-density residential areas.

The problem would be most acute at HDB estates like Sengkang and Punggol, which lie directly under the flightpath of RSAF fighter jets taking off from Paya Lebar Airbase.

Aircraft typically make a sharp 180 degree turn while climbing to avoid Malaysian airspace, which as Dr Ng noted in his reply, is a mere 6km away from the northern end of Paya Lebar’s runway.

Since the start of measures to mitigate the spread of COVID-19, more Singaporeans had to work from home. Singapore is more exposed to the noise compared to before when they would more likely to be at their offices and other workplaces further away from the flightpath when RSAF jets are flying.

READ: SAF will ‘comprehensively relook’ how it operates, trains and works amid COVID-19 pandemic

READ: Some NSmen to be swabbed for COVID-19 from October, new methods for mass testing may be used

It can be quite tough if you are in a Zoom meeting which starts at the same time as an aircraft’s take-off cycle. A typical air force take-off cycle may take up to 15 minutes, involving anywhere from two to eight aircraft, with one taking off every two to three minutes.  

Dr Ng added that the RSAF made changes to flying activities considering more people are home. These include keeping the level of local flying activities to the minimum needed to maintain operational readiness, and spread the flights across the week and on selected weekends.

This is in addition to the RSAF adjusting its training tempo to accommodate sensitive periods, such as when national school examinations are held where he said that the frequency of flights will be reduced and night flying activities will end earlier.

MILITARY TRAINING ON HOLD

Like many other sectors, militaries have also been affected by the ongoing global COVID-19 pandemic.

Members from the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force Arrive for RIMPAC

A Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force P-3C Orion arrives on Marine Corps Base Hawaii for Rim of the Pacific (RIMPAC) military exercises at Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii, U.S on Jun 25, 2018. U.S. (Photo:. Navy/Mass Communication Specialist 1st Class Kevin A. Flinn/Handout via REUTERS)

In addition to being drafted to assist in pandemic response like the SAF has, they have seen training activities curtailed or cancelled altogether, with potential knock-on impact on operational readiness.

A good example of this is this year’s iteration of the multinational Rim of the Pacific (RIMPAC) exercise in Hawaii. The biennial exercise is usually held in June but was pushed back to August this year.

Instead of the typical naval, air and land exercise involving as many as 30 nations, 50 vessels and 25,000 personnel from around the Pacific Rim participating, this year’s event saw only 10 countries, 23 vessels and 5,300 personnel take part and only consisting of an at-sea phase, with barely any face-to-face interaction among the various national delegations.

Similarly, the RSAF has seen two of its biggest overseas multilateral air combat exercises cancelled for the first time in their over 20-year history due to the pandemic. 

This includes the 2,000-strong annual air combat Exercise Cope Tiger with the Royal Thai Air Force and the United States military in Thailand, and the biennial, large-force employment multinational Exercise Pitch Black in northern Australia.

READ: Commentary: The road to getting the F-35s up and ready for Singapore

READ: Commentary: Singapore Airshow in a COVID-19 outbreak – smaller but not quite

Also cancelled was an RSAF exercise involving its Peace Carvin V training detachment in Idaho earlier this year. 

A US-based contractor was scheduled to provide adversary support for the event, which would have seen the contractor’s own aircraft act as the “bad guys” flying an advanced enemy aircraft, to provide a realistic threat vector against Singapore’s Boeing F-15SG fighter jets in an advanced air combat setting.

The cancellations mean valuable opportunities for RSAF pilots to accrue critical training hours in less restrictive and confined airspace and in realistic training exercises have been lost.

The loss in flying hours at these overseas exercises must be made up elsewhere, given that pilots will need a certain number of flying hours each month to maintain proficiency.

RSAF plane

FILE PHOTO: Republic of Singapore Air Force training session. (Photo: MINDEF)

While some can be accrued flying in full motion simulators that come close to replicating actual flight time, this cannot replace the need for pilots to spend actual time flying aircraft.

Even the best flight simulators are unable to provide the stress of life-threatening situations, unprecedented combinations of events, and the potential life-changing decision making that are part and parcel of live-flying.

A HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE

In his reply, Dr Ng cited the events of 1941 to 1942 to remind Parliament of the importance of having an air force able to dominate the air during a battle.

There are many reasons behind how a smaller, relatively lightly equipped Japanese force was able to advance more than 500km and capture Singapore from the British a mere 70 days after landing in Kota Bharu, but a crucial factor behind their stunning victory was Japanese dominance of the air.

While it was true that the Brewster Buffalo fighters deployed by the Commonwealth forces were markedly inferior to their Japanese counterparts, the Commonwealth pilots were also poorly trained. This left them unable to exploit whatever precious little performance advantages their mounts had over their adversaries.

This meant that in the final weeks of the battle for Singapore, Japanese bombers had a virtual free hand to rain death and destruction on the ground below, unchallenged by the British Royal Air Force, which had already been thoroughly defeated by then.

The effect of this lack of training was underscored by Finnish pilots a few years later, who with better training and more experience, held their own in combat against a vastly numerically superior Soviet Air Force while flying essentially the same Buffalo fighters.

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These are indeed unusual and trying times, with massive disruptions to all walks of life due to the pandemic. 

People, already frazzled by a new normal that is anything but and are understandably frustrated by yet another disruption to their work life. The noise of planes flying overhead can trigger these frustrations.

But perhaps the next time you hear the roar of a jet or the whirring of helicopters, think about how these men and women need their training. 

And in tiny Singapore, this is a small sacrifice we need to make in order to have a well-oiled military machine.

Mike Yeo is a defence journalist and author who writes for Defense News and the Australian Defence Business Review. He is the author of Desperate Sunset: Japan’s Kamikazes against Allied Ships, 1944-45 and is currently writing a book about the air war over Malaya and Singapore. 

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Phase 3 in Singapore: What can you expect?

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Phase 3 is coming soon. Here’s what we know so far and here’s keeping you clued in. 

It’s been some time since Phase 2 started on 19 June and Phase 3 is officially on the horizon. This was recently confirmed by DPM Heng Swee Keat, who announced that plans for the next phase in fighting the Covid-19 pandemic will be coming in the next few weeks. While official details remain scant, experts have chimed in on various easing measures that could be adopted. 

Here’s what we’ve managed to gather from the updates in the news and put together information on what to expect in Phase 3.

Note: Covid-19 measures and updates are frequently being revised. We request you to stay tuned to gov.sg and verify all information.  

What to expect in Phase 3 in Singapore

DPM Heng outlined a four-pronged strategy for Singapore’s safe reopening in the coming weeks, comprising:

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New Pasir Panjang Park to feature elements of natural and cultural history

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SINGAPORE: The new Pasir Panjang Park, scheduled to open in phases from 2021, will include features that allow visitors to experience the natural and maritime history of the area, said the National Parks Board (NParks) in a media release on Saturday (Oct 17).

The park, stretching from West Coast Park to Labrador Nature Reserve, is part of the Greater Southern Waterfront.

Pasir Panjang, which means long sand in Malay, used to be a long stretch of sandy beach. The area was rapidly developed from the 1970s through land reclamation and the building of Pasir Panjang Terminal.

READ: New attractions, housing and office spaces to be developed in Greater Southern Waterfront

In designing the new park, NParks held discussions with about 170 stakeholders, including the area’s residents and interest groups, between Jan 18 and May 31. 

The community took pride in Pasir Panjang’s rich history and wanted that to be featured in the park, said NParks.

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Reminiscent of the area’s sandy coastline prior to development, the landscaping will include plots of sand amid coastal vegetation reintroduced through the planting palette. (Photo: NParks)

“Future visitors will be brought down a Pasir Panjang memory lane, through incidental encounters with purposefully curated artefacts and programmes by the community, for the community,” the agency said.

These would include port items donated by PSA which would be placed in selected locations in the park.

READ: IN FOCUS: How urbanised Singapore is learning to live with its wildlife

“The stakeholders also had a strong preference for self-guided walks, preferring to hear about life in the past through other people’s perspectives and stories, rather than just historical facts about the area,” said NParks.

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The restored coastal vegetation at Pasir Panjang Park not only strengthens the recreational link between West Coast Park and the southern waterfront, it will also serve as a buffer for Labrador Nature Reserve by providing the public with an alternative node to connect with nature. (Photo: NParks)

The community will also play an active role in the curation and programming efforts behind the Pasir Panjang story.

“Heritage boards and a heritage gallery will feature contributions of old photos by members of the public, enabling the community to tell the story of Pasir Panjang, thereby encouraging further contribution and sharing,” NParks said.

MORE NATURAL ELEMENTS

Three-quarters of the stakeholders also said that the park’s main feature should focus on natural elements, with less man-made materials.

Structures in the park such as public toilets will have green roofs to “soften the look” of the man-made structures, NParks said.

Reminiscent of the area’s sandy coastline prior to development, the landscaping will include plots of sand amid coastal vegetation.

READ: Singapore to plant 1 million trees, develop more gardens and parks by 2030

READ: Sungei Buloh Nature Park Network to be established, includes new Lim Chu Kang Nature Park

This would be reintroduced in the exact location of the old beach coastline along the old concrete railing beside the canal, NParks said.

“The restored coastal vegetation at Pasir Panjang Park not only strengthens the recreational link between West Coast Park and the southern waterfront, it will also serve as a buffer for Labrador Nature Reserve by providing the public with an alternative node to connect with nature,” it added.

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Map showing the location of Pasir Panjang Park. (Photo: NParks)

There will also be a nature playgarden to encourage free play and sensory discovery among children, NParks said.

The first section of Pasir Panjang Park – from Pasir Panjang MRT to Jalan Pelepah residential estate – is scheduled to open in 2021.

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StarHub prices iPhone 12 and iPhone 12 Pro contract plans for consumer and enterprise users

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StarHub just released the prices for its iPhone 12 and iPhone 12 Pro contract plans for both consumer Mobile+ and enterprise Biz+ users. There’s no need to pre-register any interest in the latest Apple devices via the green camp. Also, both Mobile+ and Biz+ plans are automatically enrolled into StarHub’s trial 5G network at no extra cost.

Below are the price plans for iPhone 12 and iPhone 12 Pro via StarHub. iPhone 12 mini and iPhone 12 Pro Max contract plan prices are not officially available yet.

A quick summary before the charts: Mobile+ users also get free Caller Number Display (Caller ID), free SIM card registration, free one-year subscription to StarHub TV+ and Apple TV+, free three-month iCloud storage plan at 50GB, and the option to do S$0 upfront by spreading the upfront cost across 24 months. If the user is switching telcos and coming to StarHub, they receive an additional S$200 phone discount.

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M1 outs price plans for iPhone 12 lineup

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M1just released its price plans for the Apple iPhone 12 lineup and has kick-started registration of interest for their existing customers and anyone with an M1 login ID.

Pre-order begins today for iPhone 12 Pro and iPhone 12, with availability on October 23. Pre-order for iPhone 12 Pro Max and iPhone 12 mini will begin on November 6, with availability on November 13.

All customers who sign up during the preorder phase stand to enjoy these promotions:-

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'We'll retune society': Shanmugam on gender equality

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Singapore’s Law and Home Affairs Minister K. Shanmugam recently announced a review of women’s issues and gender equality

He gives This Week in Asia his take on the gaps in opportunities for women – and whether men are losing out too

Q. What are the gender gaps that need to be addressed?

A. These gaps are the products of a millennia of human existence and men taking the lead role. Today, every society is trying to correct it and many societies have come quite far. Therefore, I would hesitate to say something is wrong in Singapore. Britain is an example; Japan is also trying to bridge the gender gap. It’s a problem that everyone is dealing with. And I think the pandemic exposed it in a very significant way. Because when children are at home, who ends up having to look after them?

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Amos Yee charged in US court with solicitation from underage girl, possession of child porn

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WASHINGTON – Singaporean blogger Amos Yee, 20, was charged with solicitation and possession of child porn in an Illinois court on Friday (Oct 16), according to local media reports.

Yee, who was jailed twice in Singapore in 2015 and 2016 for wounding religious feelings, was granted asylum in the United States in 2017 and has been living in Chicago since then.

He allegedly exchanged nude photos and “thousands” of messages with a 14-year-old Texas girl while in Chicago, reported the Chicago Sun-Times daily newspaper.

Yee appeared at the Leighton Criminal Courthouse in Chicago on Friday for his bond hearing. His bail was set at US$1 million ($1.36 million) and he has been banned from using the Internet while awaiting trial, it added.

If convicted, Yee’s asylum status could be revoked and he could be deported.

ALSO READ: Amos Yee, defender of paedophiles, allegedly hosting paedophilia online forum

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